Caillez Lemaire Vinotheque 2004

The magic of the lees

Lees ageing is the process that occurs once the wine is put into bottle. Extra yeast and sugar is added to promote the secondary fermentation, (the bit that makes Champagne so unique), and once the yeast has eaten all the sugar, that’s when the magic starts. As the yeast cells start to die away they begin to interact with the wine to create an array of delicious and engaging flavours. First, after 2 or 3 years, you are greeted with bready, doughy notes alongside toast and brioche, (this is usually the end of the road for non-vintage ageing). Go a little further though and after 4 or 5 years, you can add weight and texture to the mouthfeel, as well as more complex secondary notes of crème brûlée and chicken stock. If you leave it even longer, when the wine hits 7+ years, you can reap the full rewards of autolysis, with the palate gaining layers and aromatic complexity as well as plenty more baked notes – the flavours that make good Champagne so special. 

It’s important to note, however, that only the best wines will benefit from this length of ageing and, of course, every month on the lees is a month without money in the bank for the producer, which is why this wine is so unusual and so very special.