A Short History of Cépages Oubliés
Prestigious wine growing regions from across the world have their own set of regulations that vignerons must abide by; Champagne is no exception. From the spacing of vines, to the nature of pruning and permitted vinification techniques, there are all manner of rules governed by the Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne (CIVC). One of them is the permitted grapes that can be grown in the appellation.
The 7 Grapes of Champagne
It might surprise you to know that, aside from Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, there are in fact four other varietals that can be grown in Champagne. These are: Fromenteau (more commonly known as Pinot Gris), Petit Meslier, Arbanne and Pinot Blanc. If you’re never sampled or even heard of a cuvée that incorporates these grapes, it’s hardly surprising given that they collectively account for less than 1% of all planting in the appellation. So, why did they fall from favour and why are we starting to see a resurgence now?
Climate
Until recently, Champagne was one of the most northerly regions to produce quality wine and, as such, producers faced constant battles against disease and difficulties in achieving the requisite maturity in their grapes. The slow ripening Petit Meslier and Arbanne typically produced wines with too much acidity, whilst Fromenteau and Pinot Blanc were also susceptible to mildew and botrytis. Conversely the ‘big three’ varietals that dominate the landscape all happened to be well suited to the three main regions of Champagne, without competing too much with one another; Pinot Noir demonstrated a refined elegance in the Montagne de Reims, Chardonnay a fresh minerality in the Côte des Blancs and Meunier a rich fruit-driven palate in the Marne. Yields and quality for these grapes were consistent and strong and, as such, the other four ancient grapes gradually fell out of favour.
Race forward a couple of hundred years though, and today Champagne is facing new challenges, notably from an ever-warming climate that is reducing the classic fresh profile for which Champagne is so revered. One way to combat this is reintroducing the ‘cépages oubliés’ whose former failings are now seen as assets in winemaking. Slow ripening and low PH levels are perfect for producers looking to bring freshness to their cuvées and balance ripe fruit. Furthermore, each of these grapes brings its own unique and fascinating qualities to the Champagne, making for more varied and interesting blends.
Growers are often at the forefront of experimentation in the appellation, so if they see success, you can expect to see far more from the forgotten grapes of Champagne in the future. In the meantime, if you’d like to sample a couple of these grapes in their purest form... Julien Prelat has produced two wines made purely from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris.
