The Rise of Coteaux Champenois – A window into Champagne’s Still-Wine Heritage
Long before Champagne became synonymous with sparkling wine, the region made still wine like everywhere else in France. It was a quirk of the cool climate that gave birth to Champagne as we know it today and still wine was relegated to the sidelines. In recent years, however, there has been a resurgence of this historic style – known as Coteaux Champenois.
In this article we take a look at where it went and why it’s back!
What is the Coteaux Champenois AOC?
Formally recognized under French wine law, Coteaux Champenois is an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) covering the same geographic area as Champagne but dedicated to still wines – both red, white, and rosé. While modern Champagne (the bubbly version) commands the lion’s share of attention, Coteaux Champenois is the living legacy of the region’s pre-sparkling tradition…
Early Wine Traditions in Champagne
The Champagne region’s wine heritage dates back to Roman times, when vineyards were first established on its chalky slopes. By the Middle Ages, monasteries played a crucial role in advancing viticulture and winemaking practices. Monks meticulously recorded vineyard sites, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques, laying the groundwork for centuries of excellence. Indeed, many of the prized plots today were first identified and nurtured by these early monastic communities.
Pre-Sparkling Era
Initially, the wine produced in Champagne was typically a light-bodied pinkish still red wine made from Pinot Noir grapes. These wines, while prized for their lively acidity and crisp fruit flavours, lacked the depth of their southerly counterparts in Burgundy due to the colder northern climate. Furthermore, the cold winter climates often halted fermentation before the wine was bottled and when, in Spring, the temperatures warmed and the yeast reactivated, the carbon dioxide was captured inside the bottle. Due to the weak glass used at this time, bottles often exploded in the cellar. As such, in the early days, effervescence in Champagne was considered a fault that needed to be eradicated.
The Influence of Royal Courts
While winemakers worked behind the scenes to prevent bubbles developing in their wine, the wealthy elite of England were developing a taste for this new style of wine and shipping it across the Channel by the crate load! This love for fizz was further bolstered by the 18th century Regent of France, Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, who served sparkling Champagne at his ‘petits soupers’ in the Palais-Royal. The craze caught on among Parisians and the original Grand Maisons capitalised on this trend, marketing Champagne as the wine of the elite.
Regent of France, Philippe II, Duke of Orléans
20th Century Challenges
Two World Wars had a devastating effect on the vineyards and economies of the Champagne region, which caused many houses and growers to focus on the more profitable sparkling wine production in order to rebuild. Whilst still wine production did continue on a smaller scale, it was typically only consumed locally or by dedicated connoisseurs.
21st Century Resurgence – Why is Coteaux Champenois on the up?
Climate Change & Shifting Conditions
The Champagne region is no longer as cold as it once was; warming trends have significantly enhanced grape ripening. Whilst this improved ripeness can cause issues for sparkling wine production – as vignerons battle to retain freshness in their cuvées – it is beneficial for still wines, as winemakers now see the potential to create truly world-class red and white wines that showcase ripe fruit flavours while retaining the bright acidity and tension for which Champagne is known.
Newfound Appreciation for Terroir
In the wake of a global surge in interest for artisan, site-specific wines, Coteaux Champenois has found its moment in the spotlight. As wine enthusiasts delve deeper into the nuances of various AOCs, they’ve discovered that Champagne’s chalky soils and cool climate yield still wines with remarkable finesse. Those seeking an alternative to Burgundy’s sometimes astronomical prices are turning to Coteaux Champenois for similarly elegant profiles, often at more approachable costs.
Tradition Meets Innovation
A new generation of grower-producers are taking the reins, combining ancestral know-how with modern winemaking techniques. This blend of tradition and innovation is fuelling a renaissance in still wine production, highlighting the region’s historical roots while pushing boundaries in vinification methods, vineyard management, and marketing.
Sip Champagnes’ Coteaux Champenois Selection
If you’re interested in trying this emerging trend in winemaking, here are a few excellent examples to kickstart your love affair with still wine from Champagne!
Paul Clouet Bouzy Rouge – Pure Pinot Noir from the legendary sun-drenched slopes of Bouzy. This example is made from two lieu-dits in the village: 'Les Clos' and 'Les Hautes Brousses'. Both located on mid-slopes with excellent southerly exposure, the Pinot Noir grapes reach great maturity. Vinification takes place in stainless steel to allow true expression of the fruit, followed by 24 months ageing in oak before bottling. The result is a really well-balanced wine with ample red fruit and fresh minerality.
Louis Brochet Villers Aux Nœuds Rouge 'Le Mont Benoit' – The Maison typically uses this plot in the Petite Montagne de Reims for still Pinot Noir addition for their rosé, so it made perfect sense to take it a step further and create a pure red wine. Vibrant, fresh and fruity, with floral notes and brisk acidity, this is a great example of the excellent reds that are being created in the appellation. Serve slightly chilled.
Louis Brochet Écueil Blanc 'Les Plantes' – This is the first white wine from this house, conceived when tasting Vin Clair from the 2020 harvest. The aromatics of this single-plot Chardonnay really delivered and so a portion of still wine was left to develop in oak barrels to create this beautifully elegant Coteaux Champenois Blanc that showcases citrus fruits, white flowers and chalky minerality. Enjoy with seafood or creamy cheeses.
