Bonnaire Trilogie 2008
Three wines from the stunning 2008 vintage, made using the same blend and disgorged April 2017 with 2.5g/ltr. They have, however, all been produced in a slightly different way, subtly changing the character and style.
No.1 – vinified in steel, aged on cap. Chalky, reductive and tight on the nose. The palate shows good creamy weight and then this wallop of acidity with plenty of juice behind it. There’s wonderful tropical weight too with juicy lemon and chalk on the finish, alongside lovely salinity. Of the three, this is definitely the purest expression of the mineral terroir.
No.2 – vinified in 205 litre oak barrels. As you might expect it’s a different experience entirely. The nose is creamy and tropical, with a hint of toast, honey and toffee. The first sip is so elegant with this delightful secondary note of sweet pastry and even a touch of tertiary. This is a delight!
No.3 – vinified in steel, aged on cork. There are passionate advocates on both sides for ageing on cork or cap. Cost is one as cap is cheaper, but those keen on cork feel it yields better aromatic complexity in the wine and you certainly sense that on the nose with this wine; it’s the most opulent, round and engaging. There is still that chalky note pushing right through the centre, but it feels more integrated, more vinous, more textured, and the layers deeper and more complex. It combines the primary, exotic fruit with that touch of secondary so well, creating a delicious wine that will no doubt age well too.
A truly unique experience and one that you have to try to really understand.
The house was founded in 1932 and is now run by the fourth generation, Jean-Etienne and Jean-Emmanuel, who work with a large chunk of vineyards mainly in the brilliant village of Cramant. They also have vines in Chouilly, Oiry, Bergeres les Vertus and Cuis. They are HVE certified and use malolactic throughout their wines and some oak in Cuvée Variance. Their wines show a wonderful creamy side to the village; round, opulent and moreish with a nicely poised zesty edge.
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs